Winston Salem is a very spread out place. In common with a lot of places in the states, it has evolved around the car. Not necessarily a good thing. Old Salem a bit of a disappointment. Just for tourists. On to the Yadkin Valley. Yadkinville has three pawn shops, six attorneys at law and one Courthouse. The Courthouse is in an old failed mall, that looks like it had failed in a spectacular way. Not a good start. Things brightened up a few miles on. I came across a number of wineries, mostly small, independent wineries that have diversified out of tobacco, although I came across a number of fields all planted up with the evil weed. None of the wineries were older than 10 years, but for all that I found the wines interesting with bags of potential. If I had the money the wine region of North Carolina would be worth a punt.

I stop for the night in Elkin, a small mountain town that holds on to life with a determined grace. To the Elkin BBQ pit for food and I am offered "meat, (chopped or sliced) slaw, hush puppies and grits. The waitress laughs her leg off at me when I explain that I didn't get a word of what she was saying. I ask what the meat is to more gales of laughter (pork - its cooked in a pit overnight with a sauce. Only pig is used). Slaw, it turns out, is very finely chopped cabbage mixed with vinegar and ketchup. It was actually very nice. As for Hush puppies......I've written enough. More tomorrow my faithful follower.